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Thinking of pulling the engine
- snowglobe
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I saw a thread on custom engine mounts on rennlist and am considering the Jegs stand mentioned in the first post:
forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/928-forum...-stand-adapters.html
www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/80059/10002/-1
Still no idea about a hoist, although a google search turns up many. Any recommendations?
My liftbars arrived last Friday, I have four 12 ton jack stands and a Costco 3.5 ton jack.
I'm wondering what else to get in order to safely remove and work on an engine (and put it back in! arg), or do a TT service on the 928 (to put in Constantine parts).
--Jim
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- mm928
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I will be glad to let you know what he uses as a hoist when I get over there as well as the engine stand. I have an 83 US auto, so our engine bay should be pretty similar.
1983 928S - 16v 4.7L L-Jetronic
Slate Blue Metallic w/ Blue Leather
85/86 exhaust manifolds
Y-Pipe
SS Hi-perf Cat
S4 springs
Bilstein shocks
Air pump delete
VIN: WP0JB0926DS861180
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- wallyp
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An adjustable bar that balance engine weight and allows tilting the engine is helpful.
You need a really good engine stand - the 928 engine is heavy and top-heavy. Since it is really nice to be able to rotate the engine on the stand, a gear-driven rotation is expensive, but makes it easier and safer to rotate the engine to work on the bottom.
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
www.928gt.com
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- Kiln_Red
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- 928mac
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- xstepson
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wallyp;14164 wrote: I would suggest a heavy-duty hoist with foldable "legs". These take up much less room when not being used.
An adjustable bar that balance engine weight and allows tilting the engine is helpful.
You need a really good engine stand - the 928 engine is heavy and top-heavy. Since it is really nice to be able to rotate the engine on the stand, a gear-driven rotation is expensive, but makes it easier and safer to rotate the engine to work on the bottom.
+1 on all this, but the adjustment bar really makes the pull and reinsertion of the engine go smoother.
Buy at least a 1000 lb engine stand. They generally have a wider and heavier base. Nothing worse that turning over the engine on the stand and it toppling over.DO NOT ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS.
I have calculated that 8 quarts of oil on your garage floor seems roughly enough oil to cover the state of Rhode Island at least a millimeter deep.
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- snowglobe
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I realize this could become a 6 month project after I take it out, but then I could also do a lot of cleaning, replace engine mounts, examine all the wiring and tubes, etc.. Actually, I have the strange, OCD fantasy of stripping this car to the bone, removing and rebuilding the engine and transmission .... Compared to that, taking the engine out to do some basic maintenance is a more reserved plan.
Are there any specific models of hoist and stand you would recommend? Jegs also sells a one ton hoist, but it didnt come with a bar. I'd like to be able to re-use the equipment for my SUV, so large and heavy duty (and folding or bolted) are desirable.
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- Kiln_Red
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Here is an engine stand that looks safe for the 928 engine. Can't personally vouch for this product as it is a different model from mine, but I wouldn't be afraid to use it.
John is absolutely right that the right engine stand is crucial. An I-type stand is dangerous for an engine as broad, tall, and stout as ours. You need the H-type as I recommended. I wouldn't pull the engine for a timing belt job, but I admire your enthusiasm and am sure that you'll find that it was worth it to do once it is reinstalled. Lots of otherwise tricky maintenance becomes childs play with the engine removed.
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- wallyp
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The real up-side of pulling the engine is that when you finally do get thru with it, there will be great feelings of satisfaction, pleasure and pride.
Don't get in a hurry...
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
www.928gt.com
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- mm928
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1983 928S - 16v 4.7L L-Jetronic
Slate Blue Metallic w/ Blue Leather
85/86 exhaust manifolds
Y-Pipe
SS Hi-perf Cat
S4 springs
Bilstein shocks
Air pump delete
VIN: WP0JB0926DS861180
- - Isn't Life great? - -
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